Collagen and skin ageing: what actually works.

Why collagen declines

• Age: collagen production falls gradually from early adulthood.
• Sun: UV light breaks collagen down. This is the biggest avoidable factor, including for dark skin.
• Smoking and high sugar intake: sugar binds to collagen and stiffens it (glycation).
• Menopause: falling oestrogen accelerates collagen loss.
• Rapid weight loss: it can leave skin looking looser, which is one reason a gradual pace helps.

Collagen supplements: the evidence

A 2023 meta-analysis of 26 randomised trials with more than 1,700 people found that oral hydrolysed collagen improved skin hydration and elasticity compared with placebo. The authors noted bias risks across studies and called for larger trials. A reasonable conclusion: modest benefit, best taken consistently for at least 8–12 weeks, and no substitute for sun protection.

Copper peptides (GHK-Cu)

GHK-Cu is a naturally occurring copper-binding peptide and a common ingredient in serums. Laboratory work shows effects on collagen and skin repair genes, but good-quality human trials are few. Topical use in skincare is well established. Injectable forms are not approved anywhere. See our GHK-Cu guide.

What has the strongest evidence

• Daily broad-spectrum sunscreen, which also prevents dark marks from getting darker
• Topical retinoids (tretinoin, retinol), which stimulate collagen and are well studied for fine lines
• Vitamin C serum, an antioxidant needed for collagen formation
• Enough protein in the diet, plus not smoking
• In-clinic treatments such as microneedling, chemical peels and energy devices, chosen carefully for darker skin to avoid pigmentation

A note on darker skin

Melanin-rich skin tends to show wrinkles later but is more prone to dark marks after irritation (post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation). Aggressive peels, lasers and some actives must be chosen with that in mind. We focus on brightness and skin health. We do not offer skin whitening.